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You don't have to expect National Parks or other
highlights in this short section of a week between
Mwanza and Kigali. Not many tourist travel here. This is
Africa, it's pure as it gets. We take an old ferry out
of Mwanza over a part of the lake which is a called the
Mwanza Gulf. When you would have a look
at a map of Tanzania, you would expect to come in a less
populated area. That isn't true at all.
Everywhere you are watched by surprised faces of dozens
of locals and hundreds of kids ask for your attention.
You have to take care for the Ankole Longhorn cows which
can cross your path in big numbers in this green
cultivated area of North Western Tanzania. Further away
from the beaten track, you can't go.
You pass the gold mining town of Geita
and the former German administrative centre of
Biharamulo where the old fortress reminds on
colonial times. The countryside gets slowly hillier and
greener on our way to Rwanda.
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We enter the country at the Kagera River that most of
Rwandan waters bring to Lake Victoria. The impressive
Rusumo Falls mark the border between
the two countries and it's directly clear that you cycle
in another country. The hills get higher and higher.
This is "The land of a Thousand Hills".
The green on the side of the road makes place for a
golden hedge of yellow blooming trees. The cycling is
tough due to the demanding conditions, but it's also a
great pleasure to cycle in Rwanda, where the bicycle is
the main method of transport and there is hardly
motorized traffic. Just wonderful.
It's not only the scenery which changes after the
border, it's also the general impression. Everything is
clean, organised and much more developed - with or
without international help -. You camp one night along
the quiet shores of Lake Muhazi, before
you arrive in Kigali, the capital of
Rwanda.
The place is nowadays rated among the cleanest, safest
and friendliest of African capitals. It hasn't been
always like that. The Kigali Memorial Centre
is a very sad example of the dreadful history. The
memorial is the final resting place for more than
250.000 victims of the genocide. It's a place for
remembrance and learning. For a moment you will stop
thinking about cycling, and it's good to know what has
happened in the country two decades ago. A country with
a horrific past, but a wonderful present. Especially
from the bicycle. |
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